Santorini: A Feast For Your Soul

Santorini is the ultimate destination for relaxation, recuperation and revival – the perfect place to press pause. 
Anna Price

In many of 2019’s travel guides, Greece is the ideal getaway location. This European hot-spot is a crowd-pleaser: accommodating for families but perfect for the romance-seekers. Santorini epitomises this idyllic Grecian getaway as it sits deep in the Aegean Sea, encircling a dormant volcano and the surrounding Caldera. Santorini exudes peace and luxury, avoiding the party vibe of other islands and with fewer all-inclusive resorts but more boutique hotels, the island is inviting and calm.

Santorini’s aesthetic of serenity derives from the azure skies and the cerulean sea. The combination of these cool blues with the stark white, stone buildings of the towns is striking and artistic. Wandering through the coastal towns is peaceful; even under the beating sun, the towns’ smooth appearances are gentle and serene.

In the height of summer, however, this stillness dissipates due to the influx of tourists travelling from skies and far off seas. Cruise ships’ en-masse, slow-walking, guided troupes render it difficult to absorb the natural peace of the island, while meandering the narrow, stoney streets along with fifty other English-speaking travellers tends to detract from the state of inner-calm.

This tourist-invasion can be avoided, nevertheless, by travelling towards the beginning, or end, of the season. At this time, there are fewer families and generally fewer visitors. Furthermore, the end-of-season weather is more manageable at 22 degrees celsius (as opposed to 35 in the midst of summer), even if the rain showers may be unpredictable. With cooler temperatures and less people, the opportunity to enjoy and absorb the expansive views is more likely in March/April and September/October.

Views across the Caldera along the hiking path

Santorini was once one whole island, called Stongili, meaning round. However the volcanic eruption in 1500 BC sank the centre of the island, breaking the island apart and forming the infamous Caldera. It is thought that this geological event, along with the buried town of Akrotiri, inspired the myth of Atlantis. Akrotiri is a town towards the south of Santorini, and the site of a major archeological excavation, due the fact that Akrotiri was buried by the ash of the volcanic eruption. Akrotiri is still being excavated and preserved today and allows visitors to walk in and around the ancient paths and houses, discovering the artefacts and murals. The archeological site is extraordinary, and a fantastic sight-seeing destination providing context and understanding of how the island of Santorini came to be today.

A short walk down to the coast from Akrotiri is a small row of restaurants resting directly on the sea front. Here finds ‘The Cave of Nikolas’, a local-recommended taverna with traditional seafood and a welcoming atmosphere. The dining experiences on the island vary in terms of price and style, although most serve the traditional Greek cuisine of mezze boards, moussaka and gyros. There are options for fine dining, however, and we returned to Lauda, in Oía, twice for cocktails and once for their fine dining menu. Lauda’s fine dining is impressively good: creative and well-crafted with excellent Grecian wine pairings, as well as the absolutely stunning sunset views. The Fish Tavern in Ammoudi Bay is on the other end of the spectrum, while the food is still delicious, the atmosphere is more relaxed and the service is rustic. We had to haggle for our fish.

While Thira is the liveliest town for nightlife, Oía is the destination for sunset-watching and expensive shopping. It is possible, and highly recommended, to hike between the two towns – proper shoes and semi-sportswear are required for this, however, as the ground is uneven and the hills are steep. Imerovigli is situated between the two towns and provides the perfect cafés for refreshments mid-hike.

To stay in Santorini, but not have a hotel that overlooks the Caldera, would be regrettable. The Caldera-facing towns are populated by fondant-icing style buildings that drip off of the cliff – quite the architectural feat – along with steep, winding steps that make it quite difficult to wield a suitcase. The porters at these cliff-side hotels are impressively adept at shoulder-carrying luggage of any size down such steps but the hotels themselves tend to be over-looked by passers-by. The hotel pools, sun-beds, bar and restaurant areas can be seen by walkers meandering through the villages, as the buildings themselves are vertically spread across the cliff-face, almost merging into each other. This creates a lack of privacy that I personally find off-putting.

Nevertheless, located on the hiking path between Imerovigli and Oía, is San Antonio Suites. This hotel is set deep in the cliff, with clear, unprecedented views of the Caldera, luxurious rooms and outstanding service. The privacy level is perfect and the atmosphere is of serene elegance. San Antonio Suites is indulgent without being ostentatious; a fine line they navigate perfectly. The stay at this luxury hotel is unique and memorable: the private terraces and hot tubs provide a sense of exclusivity, furthered by the intimate bar seats looking out to sea, and the options for private spa afternoons. The positioning in the cliff creates a seclusion that also protects from large gusts of wind but retains the warmth of the sunlight. Walking into this hotel is like entering your own section of the island and with less than thirty rooms, the public spaces rarely feel crowded. There is nothing better than privately soaking up the evening sun, champagne in hand, overlooking the ocean. It is the ultimate escape.

View of the Caldera from the Spa Balcony at San Antonio Suites

By the end of the Santorini experience, sun-soaked and full of taramasalata, visitors feel replenished in mind, body and soul. The views are constantly breath-taking and automatically fill you with serenity. Santorini reminds us of the importance of simplicity and the wonder that lies in natural beauty. This island allows you to take a step back, relax and breathe.


All pictures are my own unless otherwise credited. Permission must be obtained before any reproduction and credit must be issued in any reproduction.


 

San Francisco: Looking Ahead

San Francisco as a place of iconic cultural movements, and its atmosphere of societal change today. 
Anna Price

Lonely Planet opens their webpage on San Francisco by claiming that this city is ‘fog-shrouded icons’, before going on to mention warm layers, glitter and ‘fabulousness’. Clearly nodding to San Francisco’s micro-climate of fog and wind, along with its iconic relationship with gay pride, Lonely Planet only begins to scratch the surface of California’s most innovative city.

Only a 40 minute drive from infamous Silicon Valley, San Francisco is the home-town of tech-gurus, risk-taking entrepreneurs and forward-thinking hipsters. It is a habitat for creators and visionaries with quirky bars, museums, restaurants and theatres. San Francisco cultivates creativity and it feels modern. It feels colourful, diverse, inviting and progressive. All are welcome. In an America shrouded in hate, violence, borders and walls, San Francisco feels hopeful. This sense of liberation is unsurprising, considering California’s Democrat stronghold since 1992; but in a political environment that often looks more to the past than to the future, it is refreshing to visit a city that has not altered its avant-garde position.

Fifty years on from the Summer of Love of 1967, and still with the faint scent of marijuana in the air, messages of social plight are still prevalent, articulated powerfully by the exhibition at the de Young museum in Golden Gate Park. With lamp posts  displaying the progression of social movements from 1967 to 2017, it becomes clear we are still fighting for the same thing. In 1967, it was Civil Rights, now it is Black Lives matter; in 1967, it was Free Love, now it is Marriage Equality. Liberation, freedom, inclusivity, peace and understanding. Compassion. Humanity.

San Francisco is reminiscent of London in the way that different areas have different atmospheres. While London has Leicester Square, Shoreditch, Greenwich, Camden, Chelsea, Westminster etc, San Francisco homes the Castro, the Mission District, Haight-Ashbury, North Beach, the Tenderloin, Sunset District, Presidio etc. All of San Francisco’s districts seem united by colour and visual representations of social movements. The murals and street art in Mission are iconic, while the Castro was one of the first gay communities in the U.S. Haight-Ashbury is the birthplace of the swinging 60s counter-culture in and amongst beautiful Victorian style houses; the most iconic of which are the Painted Ladies who found fame with Full House in the 90s. These parts of San Francisco are a cultural palimpsest, marking different societal movements and crazes of past and present.

Conversely, the North Shore of the city tends to be more commercial, with the likes of Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39 and of course access to Alcatraz. These are tourist icons of the city, one-off must-sees, but generally over-priced areas. Union Square, Market Street and the Financial District are equally as busy with shoppers and tech-men as the business hub of the city thrives. Yet underlying this affluent area, is the Tenderloin. This is the location of a lot of the homelessness, addiction problems and poverty within the city. Despite San Francisco’s progressive and foreward thinking outlook, it is one of the worst places for homelessness. In California in general, the number of people experiencing homelessness is upwards of 134,000, compared to New York State’s 89,000. This, paired with the incredibly high real-estate prices, does tint the shine of San Francisco and slightly undermine the city’s glorious social plight. The Tenderloin, nevertheless, is still home to some incredible cultural history – including the basis of the jazz movement as well as individuals who shaped, and importantly continue to help, the community as it stands today. To learn more about the Tenderloin, its posture within the city and why it is not a place that should be tucked under the carpet, I would highly recommend the Tenderloin Walking Tour.

Walking in San Francisco is almost second nature, it certainly is not an easy city to drive, and most places are easily accessible on foot, except perhaps the climb to Coit Tower. For routes less dominated by tourists, there are hiking trails along the North West coast of the city, from Land’s End to Sutro Heights. Within these trails is the Legion of Honour, one of the Fine Arts museums of San Francisco. The museum has a rich European Art collection, holding artists such as Rubens, Monet and Rembrandt, as well as large sculpture installations, including Rodin’s famous ‘The Thinker’. This area is removed from the city and provides a respite from the hustle, bustle and loud nature of the inner city. The views across the bay to the Golden Gate Bridge provide a peaceful setting to immerse in this hidden gem of a museum.

San Francisco is layered with cultural and societal movements of bygone times that foreground and spur today’s, and future generation’s, pursuits of social justice.  San Francisco is youthful and ambitious, but the increasing successes and wealth of its inhabitants will drive city prices higher creating an underlying concern that, unproductively and counter-intuitively, these expenses will further the social and poverty divide within the city. Nevertheless, the  murals and people of the city are living, physical reminders, for the city and for visitors, of the quest for love above all in times of turmoil, and the pursuit for what is right.


America’s Homelessness

Golden Daze: 50 Years on from the Summer of Love

Legion of Honour

Lonely Planet: San Francisco 

San Francisco: 50 Years on from the Summer of Love

San Francisco Housing Prices


All pictures are my own unless otherwise credited. Permission must be obtained before any reproduction and credit must be issued in any reproduction.