France – Under The Cypress Tree

The thought of road tripping instantly conjures images of captivating scenery, romantic getaways, impulsive decision-making as well as notions of freedom, escape and exploration. Anyone who has ever been on a road trip, however, will know that there will also be long stretches of motorway, frustrating wrong turns and the craving for a proper meal, not to mention the numb bums and stiff legs.

Despite these perhaps off-putting aspects, road trips for me will always be nostalgic. For many years, driving to France was our staple family holiday. Whether we were heading to the south, or hiring a mobile home in Normandy, the memories of early mornings packing up the car, my brother and I sitting with our pillows and cuddly toys in the back seat and speeding down the empty motorway to Portsmouth will forever bring me warmth and comfort.

In addition to my emotional fondness for French road trips, I have also learned as I have grown up that they are quite a logical option for an inexpensive holiday. Often, using the Eurotunnel or catching the ferry is a cheaper option than flying, you can bring as much luggage as you need (or that can fit in the car) and driving from England removes any local transport issues if you are staying somewhere rural (especially if you’re under 25 and are unable to rent a car). For these reasons, as well as my personal partisanship for driving, my boyfriend and I decided to road trip to Rennes over a weekend in August 2019.

We took an early crossing from Portsmouth to Ouistreham, Normandy and booked a cabin on the ferry to recover from the early start and relax away from large families with excited children who occupied the cafe areas. Once disembarked, we commenced the shortish (2 hour) drive to Rennes. As far as road trips go, it is not the longest or most flamboyant, as it is mostly motorways, but it is comfortable, calm and a very convenient getaway.

Rennes’ typically Medieval architecture

Marché des Lices

Rennes is the capital of France’s northern region, Brittany, and it is steeped in medieval splendour. As a converging point between other important northern towns, Rennes has upheld an important geographic location since its purpose as a Roman settlement. The half-timbered houses act as a reminder of this medieval prominence, while the streets below bustle with busy bars and the vibrance of the cultural scene.

While Rennes is a reasonably big city, it is also manageable to walk and explore over a couple of days. The cobbled streets of the medieval sector, combined with two large central squares (Place du Parlement de Bretagne and Place de la Marie) and the concrete newer builds (decorated with the odd piece of graffiti) on the outskirts of the centre provide the city with a typically French feel. The narrow alleyways lined with low-ceilinged cafés and restaurants, conversely, are distinctly unique and offer a lively nightlife (helped by the student population) even in the low season.

We arrived on the 15th August – Assumption Day – and a French public holiday. Despite understanding that this was a bank holiday, we were still surprised by the emptiness of the city centre and we were unprepared for the closure of supermarkets, with only a few restaurants taking tables. We, along with a few other displaced tourists, took to wandering the streets to find a restaurant with a free table. If we weren’t so hungry, this would have been a traveller’s dream. No throngs of tourists to elbow past, clear views down the architecturally captivating streets and the ability to soak up the city with space to breathe.

As it happened, however, we were weary and famished, and in desperate need of some dinner. We managed to squeeze in for a late sitting at La Casa Pépé and a carafe of wine and two wood-fired pizzas later, our hunger was abated and we were in full holiday mode.

Naturally, our whole getaway was a budget gastronomic dream: on-the-go breakfasts of coffee and croissants, lunches comprised of baguette and charcuterie from the local supermarket, the hotel cocktail hour became a staple occurrence and dinners in the town centre were affordable but delicious. In addition to La Casa Pépé, we also dined at Le Beouf au Balcon and Le P’tit Baigneur, both found on Rue Rallier du Baty in rickety medieval townhouses. For brunch, however, a fashionable must-go is Oh My Biche. They’re menu changes seasonally, but will often include sweet and savoury dishes, along with popular culinary street-trends.

Casa del Pépé

Brunch at Oh My Biche

Galettes at Le P’tit Baigneur

Hotel Cocktails

Staying in Rennes at Hotel Spa Saint Antoine meant we were walking distance to all restaurants, museums and markets, but it also meant we had access to a small pool and a parking space; little luxuries that really transforms the getaway into a holiday. Due to an error with the lift mechanism to descend to the hotel parking, however, we had to find parking elsewhere. A slight stress in a new location, but luckily the local train station had spaces free and we were able to easily park while still being close to the hotel.

Having a parking space, or knowing where to park, renders day-trips smooth and effortless. We were able to get out of the city knowing we could return and park easily before dinner. While based in Rennes, we ventured out across the country roads to explore the rural town Châteaubriant, it’s 11th-Century castle, and it’s sleepy surrounds. The River Vilaine runs through Rennes, but its valley in the outskirts of the town provide the opportunity to appreciate the body of water without the urban cityscape. The towpath at Le Boël is peaceful and serene, and offers the perfect opportunity to take in the countryside en Bretagne.

Château de Châteaubriant

Le Boël

Having an overnight crossing back to Portsmouth allowed us a full day of road-trip stop-offs. After leaving Rennes, we braved the intensity of Mont Saint-Michel. An incredibly interesting island commune off of the coast of Brittany, but also a tourist-hotspot with crowds so thick and cafés so expensive it is suffocating. We went, we saw, we survived, we are unlikely to return again in peak season. Instead of spending the afternoon on Mont Saint-Michel as planned, we headed across the coast to Houlgate, Normandy.

Houlgate is one of the towns I holidayed in as a child and it only holds fond memories: afternoons playing ping pong, morning walks along the beach, exploring the extravagant Victorian houses dotted through the town, hours and hours of swimming and scrumptious seaside dinners of steak-frites.

Watching the sun set over Houlgate beach, ‘Schtroumpf’ ice-cream in hand and with a full belly of moules, was therefore the perfect way to end this weekend getaway. We indulged in the history and culture of Rennes, explored its surroundings, ate so much food and truly felt we had escaped the hubbub of our everyday lives.

I’m sure this sense of relaxation and calm was facilitated by the ability to travel in the privacy of our own car. We could elude the crowds of Mont Saint-Michel with the snap of a finger, and we could venture into Brittany’s countryside with ease. It’s true what they say: driving holidays truly feed into a sense of adventure and the feeling of freedom is quite incomparable.

All pictures are my own unless otherwise credited. Permission must be obtained before any reproduction and credit must be issued in any reproduction.

The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is celebrated for its ability to transport passengers back to a time of luxurious, effortless travel. A symbol of elegant art deco style, The Orient Express allows passengers to rediscover the romance of travelling through Europe’s favourite cities.

In travelling from London Victoria to Venezia Santa Lucia, the magic begins in the waiting room at Victoria Station, where passengers are welcomed with coffee before boarding the British Pullman train for the first leg of the journey. The sense of nervous excitement is palpable, as couples of all ages, on anniversary, birthday and engagement trips, arrive alongside bustling groups of friends, ready for what is internationally considered to be a trip of a lifetime.

The exceptionally attentive and accommodating service begins as soon as the British Pullman arrives, as porters oblige in taking multiple photos before escorting passengers to their seats. By this point, the elation starts to settle and appetites begin to grow in perfect timing for brunch to be served.

Each carriage of the British Pullman has been restored to its original beauty, and each has an individual name, style and story. The carriages date from the 1920s, upholding traditional art deco artwork on the wood panelling, while the crockery, glassware and table settings maintain the quintessentially British element of the British Pullman train. Bellinis poured, coffee served and pastries offered, the British Pullman is well on its way. All that is left to do, is enjoy the caviar infused scrambled eggs, absorb the beautiful English countryside and perhaps do a crossword puzzle or two.

As the British Pullman pulls into Folksestone, the excitement reemerges as a brass band welcomes the carriages into the station, and once all passengers have disembarked and joined luxury shuttle buses, the band waves goodbye and the shuttles enter the euro tunnel with the anticipation of French air.

By the time the busses emerge onto French soil, each passenger is more than ready for the main event: The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. As the sun sets over Calais station, the iconic carriages uphold a luminous glow and as travellers board the epochal train, they are immediately transported to an era of sophisticated travel.

Once settled in the cabin with a glass of champagne, it is time to relax and prepare for the evening activities: a four course dinner followed by jazz music in the bar car. As the Orient Express speeds towards Paris, night closes in and guests make their way to the opulent dining cart for the first sitting of dinner. The corridors allude to the sounds of bygone journeys: tinkling jewels and bustling fabric as passengers walk in the footsteps of previous guests for a fine-dining experience not to be forgotten.

The ingredients for the seasonal set menus are locally sourced and artisanally prepared to provide flavours of the highest quality. On this particular journey, diners enjoyed lobster, caviar and cauliflower puree to start, followed by a tender piece of beef with roasted vegetables. The third course consisted of six professionally chosen cheeses, served with a selection of chutneys and crackers. And finally, dessert was composed of a chocolate-hazelnut filo parcel alongside a skilfully poached pear.

After finishing the meal with a cup of tea and a selection of petit-fours, the first-sitting of diners glide towards the bar cart and join the buzz of the second-sitting diners before they descend for their dinner. The cramped quarters of this single carriage demonstrated difficulty in manoeuvring, but once drinks were obtained and seats were gained it proved a most rememberable evening, as guests chatted, laughed and listened to the jazz piano into the early hours of the morning.

When it’s time to retire, passengers find that their cabin has been transformed into cosy bunkbeds with the washbasin prepared with miniature toiletries. Once snuggled under the blankets, it is not long until sleep approaches with the soothing rhythm of the tracks along with the quantities of wine consumed that evening. Awaking in the morning is magnificent. Lying in bed and watching the beautiful Swiss countryside gracefully unfold out the window is an experience that is incomparable to other modes of luxury travel. Breakfast is soon served in the room, and after a relaxing morning of scenery-gazing, card games and reading, The Orient Express rolls into Italy and it is time for lunch.

This three-course meal is no less indulgent than the night before, except now there is the added luxury of viewing the scenery in the dazzling Italian sunlight. After an afternoon drink in the bar cart, there is time for a brief siesta before the train pulls into Venice’s Santa Lucia’s station.

The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is an experience of gourmet dining, luxury travel and indulgent hedonism. It is undeniably a once in-a-lifetime journey, that should be taken more than once whenever feasible. It is impossible to leave the extravagance of The Orient Express without immediately wanting to travel on it again.

All pictures are my own unless otherwise credited. Permission must be obtained before any reproduction and credit must be issued in any reproduction.